The Ebro River and Miravet

Of course you can also go on many excursions that have nothing at all to do with the Priorate; although on clear days the Montsant is visible from Miravet in all its splendid length, and it would be a shame to miss it…

To get to this remarkable village, please continue from Falset to Mora de Ebre, stay on the main road (new stretch of road) outside of town, and continue in the direction of Gandesa and then Benissanet – Miravet (travel time: barely 30 minutes after starting from Falset).

Miravet is wonderfully situated on the banks of the Ebro river and boasts a magnificent Templars’ fortress, a fantastic urban core, a medieval oil mill down by the river, and many, many pottery manufacturers. Our “favourite” is Mr. Ferran (outside of the village, secluded, a large pink house on the right side of the road, usually surrounded by the cars and pick-up trucks of pottery aficionados!). His works of art are simply gorgeous, derive from the collective soul of the people, and every single piece has a history of its own. In addition, he has set up a ceramics museum for his customers on the 1st floor and sells genuine old ceramics at very good prices, as well as modern pottery from half of Spain. Simply a must! (Unless you are travelling by plane, in which case it’s tough luck!)

Down by the river you will find a beautiful plaza with a bar from where you can continue hiking to the church and fortress, or, if you still aren’t tired, cross the Ebro river in your car on an archaic ferry. From there, you can either continue to the left towards Mora-Falset or follow the Ebro canyons to Tortosa all the way to the Ebro delta. The Delta de l’Ebre nature reserve located in that area is still home to several flamingo colonies. In Sant Carles de la Rápita you will find some excellent places to eat and even places to spend the night.

Those interested in venturing into the country’s “heartland” need to proceed from Mora to Gandesa, and from there take a left to Valderobles (or Vallderoure in Catalan) and Beceite (we don’t want to give away too much, but both places are a sight worth seeing, even though they couldn’t be more different from each other). There is also a “secret path“ leading from Miravet to Valderobles, and we have driven on it many times in order to – who would have guessed it?! – go to a really great fish restaurant in Pinar del Brai (Cal Angel). The very best fish all around (much better and cheaper than in Barcelona, for whatever reasons). Pinar del Brai, which was also under the leadership of a quartet of courageous ladies, has once again turned into a wine cathedral, and it is built in the best ”modernisme“ style. Tours are available after lunch, i.e. from 4 p.m., and we guarantee you won’t be disappointed.

Horta de Sant Joan (Picasso’s “Village of Inspiration“ with a miniature Picasso museum) is not far away, nor are the rocks in the ”Estrets d’Arnes“ directly on the banks of the Arnes rivulet, which are equally impressive in their way.

Corbera de Ebre is also worth a visit. The old village was never rebuilt after the civil war, every remaining as destroyed as it was, bullet holes all over the place, for everyone to see. And definitely guaranteed to leave a deep impression. Those interested in getting a first impression should buy the movie “Pan’s Labyrinth“ – a truly impressive Catalan film showing many scenes shot in the old village.